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Sew a Shirred Waist Top

Step -by -Step Tutorial: How to Sew a Shirred Waist Top Using Your Own Measurements - No Pattern Needed


Sew a shirred waist top - no pattern needed

Sew your dream summer top - no pattern needed This shirred top is simple, flattering, and beginner-friendly. It’s made from just a rectangle of fabric and a bit of elastic thread.

Pair it with your favourite skirt or shorts, layer it under a shirt, or wear it on its own for an effortless, handmade look.


No pattern required. No fuss. Just fabric, elastic, and your sewing machine.

Follow the step-by-step instructions below to sew your own shirred top! ✨


This is a perfect project to pair with my Simple Sewing Guide.


Remember to tag me in your beautiful creations on Instagram @sewingwitholive - and if you'd like to see a full video tutorial, you can check out the sew along tutorial here on YouTube.


YOU WILL NEED:


  • Woven fabric: Lightweight cotton, linen, or viscose (Width: 115 - 150cm depending on your bust size – see Notes)

  • Elastic thread (for the bobbin)

  • Matching regular thread (for the top thread)


NOTES

The seam allowance is 1.5cm throughout.

To work out how much fabric you’ll need: Measure around the fullest part of your bust and multiply it by 1.5.This is the width of your rectangle.The height is up to you - around 35 - 45cm works well for most sizes, depending on how cropped you want it.



TAKE YOUR MEASUREMENTS


Step #1

You’ll need:

  • Waist measurement

  • Length from collarbone to waist (or desired hem point)

Example:

  • Waist = 69 cm

  • 69 × 1.5 = 103.5 cm

  • 3cm seam allowance (1.5cm each side)

  • 103.5 ÷ 2 + 3 = 54.7 cm → this is the width of one panel

Length:

  • Collarbone to waist = 36 cm

  • 4 cm seam allowance (2 cm hem top + 2 cm bottom)

  • 5 cm ease (extra room near armhole)= 45 cm total length


CUTTING OUT


Step #2


Cut 2 rectangles of fabric using your calculated dimensions. For example: 54.7 cm wide × 45 cm long (x2)

TIP: Fold your fabric in half (right sides together) and cut both panels at once. Pin to secure before cutting.



Step #3


Hem the Top + Bottom First

Why first? Shearing after hemming gives a cleaner finish and avoids stretching.

  1. Turn top edge under 1 cm, press.

  2. Turn again another 1 cm, press.

  3. Repeat on bottom edge.

  4. Sew with straight stitch (length 3), backstitching at start and end.

Repeat for both panels.



Step #4


Finish Side Edges: Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch on the side seams of both panels.


Step #5


Wind Your Shearing Bobbin

  1. Thread elastic into an empty bobbin by hand - don’t stretch it.

  2. Wind evenly, not tight.

  3. Leave a long tail when trimming.


Step #6


Set Up Machine for Shearing

  • Top thread: regular polyester

  • Bobbin: elastic thread (ensure it turns anti-clockwise)

  • Stitch: Straight stitch

  • Stitch length: 4

  • Tension: Leave as normal

Test on a scrap piece of the same fabric first.


Step #7


Shirr the Front Panel

  1. Start at the hem. Use your hem stitch as a guide for the first row.

  2. Stitch with elastic bobbin, straight lines across the width.

  3. Use edge of presser foot as a guide to keep spacing even.

  4. Continue rows until shearing reaches just below your bust.

Tip: Don’t backstitch at start/end - leave long tails and tie off later.



Step #8


Shear the Back Panel

Repeat the same shearing process as the front:

  • Start at the hem and work your way up.

  • Keep lines straight and evenly spaced.

  • Stop at the same height as your front panel (just below bust).

  • Leave long thread tails to tie off instead of backstitching.

💡 Optional: Iron over the shearing after sewing to help it shrink up neatly.


Step #9


Sew the Side Seams

  1. Place front and back panels right sides together.

  2. Pin side seams, aligning the hem and top edge.

  3. Sew side seams using a 1 cm seam allowance.

  4. Finish with an overlocker or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.

  5. Press seams open or to the back.


Step #10


Join the Top Corners

  1. Place the front and back panels right sides together.

  2. Pin the top corners together on both sides - this forms the underarm shaping.


Step #11


 Mark the Diagonal Seam

On each side:

  1. From the top edge, measure 5 cm down along the side seam - mark it.

  2. From the top edge, measure 5 cm inward along the top - mark it.

  3. Use a ruler to connect the two marks with a straight diagonal line.

  4. Repeat on the opposite side.



Step #12


Sew along both diagonal lines using a straight stitch.

  • Backstitch at the start and end for strength.

  • Stitch length: 2.5 mm.


Step #13


Trim + Finish the Seams

  1. Carefully trim away excess fabric, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance.

  2. Avoid cutting into your stitch line.

  3. Finish raw edges using an overlocker or zigzag stitch.


Step #14


Turn + Press

  1. Turn the top right side out.

  2. Press the top edge and diagonal seams flat.

  3. Press the hem again for a crisp finish.


You’ve just made a beautiful shirred top from scratch - no pattern required. Perfect for summer layering or pairing with your handmade shorts or wrap skirt. Don’t forget to share your makes with me @sewingwitholive 💛




 
 
 

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